Six days in Iceland’s Geothermal Wonders
By Maeson Hayes
There’s something that always draws me back to Iceland. Even when my body has left, my mind constantly returns. It’s where the sky dances, adventure calls, and wellness awaits.
Iceland reignited a spark in me. I’ve heard it’s a healing country, but it went beyond what I could imagine. The possibilities are endless, and as someone who consistently needs a full night’s rest to function, I found myself transformed back into my five-year-old self, willingly battling exhaustion to keep my eyes open to continue my adventure and witness the magical views. Iceland heals with its silence, yet the ocean around it sings with a vibrant life of its own.
Day One: Defrosting and Acclimatizing
My journey began in early April, as winter’s grip was just beginning to soften into spring’s thaw. We started at the Northern Light Inn in Grindavík, where the aurora borealis danced for us after a five-hour soak in the ethereal Blue Lagoon. Feeling utterly refreshed by the geothermal waters, we dined at the Lava Restaurant, minds buzzing with anticipation for the Golden Circle adventure that awaited us the next day.
Day Two: Setting Out on the Golden Circle
At Þingvellir National Park, a site of profound historical and geological significance, we walked the Almannagjá gorge, strolling between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The earth continued to reveal its wonders: we felt it tremble at the Strokkur geyser as it reliably launched plumes of boiling water skyward, marveled at the sheer, thundering power of Gullfoss, the ‘Golden Falls,’ as it plunged in two colossal stages into the ancient Hvítá river canyon, its roar a symphony, of mist clinging to our faces. We then peered into the vibrant, mineral-streaked caldera of Kerið Crater, a splash of unexpected color in the volcanic landscape.
Day Three: Ice Caves and Black Sand Beaches
On day three, we arrived in Vík where we prepared to embark on our hike of the Katla Ice Cave. We clambered into a rugged super jeep, its enormous tires making light work of the challenging volcanic terrain—an adventure in itself. After a bumpy, exhilarating ride towards the glacier, we slipped (literally) into our crampons, slapped on our helmets, and followed our guide towards the steep winding ice terrain. Stepping inside was like entering another realm: a frozen world of mesmerizing blues, translucent greys, and pearly whites, the ash-striped layers of ancient ice compressed over centuries. Our tour guide snuck us into a hidden ice cave at the very top of the mountain where we submerged our water bottles to savor the crystal cold water and rubbed the volcanic dirt across our face (an at home mud mask one might say) before we began our equally adventurous slide back down the icy mountain. Damp and exhausted, we returned to our Airbnb. On our way, we couldn’t resist one last stop in Vík. We took in the black sand beach’s crashing waves and a secluded little church that lit up the town. After one last “take it in” moment, the stars danced above us as we fought sleep for another night.
Day Four: Glaciers, Geysers, and Geothermal Giants—Oh My!
We decided to bookend our trip at Sky Lagoon where we experienced the seven-step ritual. Following these geothermal spa experiences, we also sought out more secluded spots, including Seljavallalaug, one of Iceland’s oldest pools, nestled against a dramatic mountain backdrop, and the rustic charm of Hrunalaug Hot Spring, a tiny, moss-covered gem that felt like a secret hobbit home. Our journey continued to the Svínafellsjökull viewpoint, a striking introduction to Iceland’s glacial landscapes. We were mesmerized by the massive glacier tongue stretching out before us, a fractured mosaic of deep blue and white ice. Just moments away at Diamond Beach, crystalline icebergs that had broken off the glacier washed ashore, glistening against the black volcanic sand.
A tapestry of more liquid wonders unfolded, each waterfall with its own distinct personality. There was the iconic, broad curtain of Skógafoss, so immense and powerful you could feel its vibrations in your chest long before you stood at its misty base, where legend has it a Viking hid his treasure. Then came the unique thrill of walking fully behind the cascade of Seljalandsfoss, an almost surreal experience to be enveloped by the falling water, looking out at the world through its shimmering, cool veil. And perhaps most enchanting was the delightful discovery of Gljúfrabúi, a secret waterfall earned by a careful wade through a shallow stream into a narrow, mossy canyon, where it tumbled into a hidden grotto—a truly magical, almost clandestine encounter. It was yet another one of Iceland’s breathtaking gifts. Because whether you’re dining in a geothermal greenhouse like Friðheimar, surrounded by tomato vines, descending into crystalline ice caves, or chasing waves, the country insists you feel every element fully.
Day Five: Off the Beaten Path—and Into the Water
Approaching the end of our trip we geared up for an ATV tour. We thundered across the vast, haunting expanse of Sólheimasandur, the black sands stretching endlessly before us, the famous DC-3 plane wreck emerging like a skeletal monument against the dramatic backdrop of Mýrdalsjökull glacier. The wind whipped at our faces, the spray of the nearby Atlantic was palpable, and the power of the landscape was undeniable.
And for an on-the-water adventure, the call of the ocean on a jetski offers an exhilarating perspective. Trading the quiet solitude of the highlands for the invigorating spray of the North Atlantic. The sheer joy of speeding across the ocean, feeling the wind and the waves, is a unique kind of therapy. It clears the mind and leaves you with an undeniable sense of exhilaration and connection to the present moment. Gliding over the icy waters near Vík or skimming past the black sand beaches—that’s how you truly get closer to Iceland’s elements. I knew that to chase this exhilarating connection, most jetskiing adventures unfold in places like Reykjavik Bay, where tours sweep past the city skyline and out to islands like Puffin and Viðey. Further north, in Ólafsfjörður, the stunning Tröllaskagi Peninsula hosts guided tours with dramatic mountain backdrops and the chance of whale sightings.
Day Six: Soaking in the Last Moments
On our final morning, instead of rushing, we woke before dawn at our Airbnb, greeted by horses and cows grazing in the soft light of a new day. This quiet, unexpected moment of stillness became a perfect bookend to an adventure defined by motion. We took to the road, soaking in the geothermal waters one last time before our flight, a final ritual of connection before we left this wild, wonderful land behind.
